Located at the centre of present-day Turkey; the ancient district of Cappadocia is in east-central Anatolia, about 700 km from Istanbul. The plateau is dominated by an eerie landscape comprising long, tall, and thin rock structures, the ‘fairy chimneys’ (or more technically; ‘hoodoos’) that rise out of the ground.
Contrary to the myth, which attributes these landscapes to the fairies that once lived in the area and after leaving returned as pigeons, these rock formations are the result of a geological process that spans millions of years. The magnificent landscape was formed by volcanic eruptions that rained ash over this region. The ash hardened into a porous rock (tuff), which was then covered by a layer of basalt. As millennia passed, the softer tuff wore down by wind and water, giving way to pillars that now stand as high as 40 meters. The mushroom-shaped cap is the remnant of harder basalt rock that eroded more slowly.
While forces of nature shaped the incredible rock formations, people living in the area for hundreds of years have dug into the soft but firm tuff to create dwellings, monasteries, churches, and underground cities. From The Hittites (late bronze age) to the Ottomans, nearly all European empires have claimed this region and for centuries, people fleeing prosecution have fled into these underground dwellings to shield themselves from outsiders.
Designated as a World Heritage Site, the rock sites of Cappadocia’s Göreme National Park are described by UNESCO as "one of the world's most striking and largest cave-dwelling complexes."
The Ride of a Lifetime
I will be honest, our quest to explore Cappadocia was driven by the desire to get a safe and (..more importantly) affordable ride on the hot-air balloon. Appreciation of the landscape and the realization of the region’s historical importance came in later.
We had booked flights in advance with the hotel and however while checking in were reminded that the flights are not guaranteed and can be canceled if the weather conditions are not right. Luckily, the weather gods were on our side and the flight went through. We were picked up at 5.30 in the morning and were hurtled across to the ballooning site in minivans.
Typically, a group of up to 200 balloons would take to the sky, each balloon carrying about 20-30 people. The pilots take full advantage of the terrain to show off their skills as they manoeuvre the balloon high and low, sometimes skimming tree tops and at others bumping and squeezing between the neighbouring balloons. The sunrise, the coloured balloons drifting silently in the sky, with the occasional roar of the burners, and the interplay of the eery landscape are surreal. The ride lasts for about an hour, and finally, the balloon is softly landed on the awaiting trailer. The successful ride is celebrated by serving alcoholic and non-alcoholic champagne, candy, and biscuits.
Quad biking
Most of the activities offered in Cappadocia are timed around sunset and sunrise and rightly so, as these times are the best to enjoy the sights and take some happy snaps. But the days can be long in a small town.
Around the corner from our hotel was a quad bike place, I had never driven a quad bike before and the temptation to hire one was overwhelming. The bikes with a guide can be hired outside tour times and we went for it. The guides are proficient and familiar with the terrain and lead through a tour that is not only scenic but also provides occasional opportunities to safely unleash the ‘devil’ driver in us.
The tour last for about an hour and a half and is worth exploring even at the cost of covering your clothes with fine dust. A compressed air washup after the ride is included in the price.
Pottery Kebabs.
Turkey is famous for its kebabs and tea, but a variation to the theme that caught our attention was the ‘pottery kebabs’. The stew and the kebabs are prepared in a special earthen vessel that is sealed with dough, resembling a pressure cooker. The vessel is placed in the oven and then brought to the table in a sealed state. The display involves tapping and breaking out the contents of the vessel into the bowl on the table.
While the food is nice the artistry involved in serving the piece is even better.
The Kebab Presentation
Handcrafted
I am always intrigued by craftsmen and artists, but unfortunately, one rarely gets an opportunity to meet the creator of the work in person. Being a small town, Cappadocia’s visit provided us with this rear opportunity as one of the random shops I visited had a maker present working on his piece. Turan, was an elderly gentleman in his late sixties who has been practicing his skills for decades, he specialized in a certain type of pattern and showed us around his shop. I asked him, where he got his training and he replied that he had learned the skills by watching others.
Similarly, in another shop we met this old lady who was selling crochet crafts that she prepared herself. ‘Takes me about 7 days to prepare one’, she said ‘as my hands are getting frail and weak due to old age’.
While I can’t be certain, it seems most of the shops were operating as a commune with craftspeople sharing the outlet.
Cappadocia Göreme valley where most of the action happens is about an hour’s travel from the airport, and this travel time needs to be accounted for while planning the trips, as with 3 hours before reporting requirements for international travel, this could lead to sleepless nights.
All in all, Cappodocia is an interesting place and worth having on one’s bucket list!